An adventure on all fours

Chapter 1

Across Namibia in an X5

Namibia, Summer 2007

Namibia cross country. With four-wheel drive, electronics and air conditioning through arid river beds, past gazelles, giraffes and bushmen. On the road in an X5, surrounded by the breathtaking flora and fauna of a country that has much more to offer than just wild animals and sandy deserts.

The five days in Namibia were fascinating, thrilling and indescribable. Our 1,500 kilometre tour took us across savannahs, rocky plains, the finest desert sand, right across the Namibian bush and past seals, flamingos and dolphins. Our camera snapped away non-stop and the four trusty wheels of our X5 carried us smoothly without a murmur. We spent the nights in comfortable lodges. Five days in Namibia - wilderness, high-tech; five days far from Germany, without mobile phones, internet or television.

Watch your Step

The first five minutes after our arrival at the Okapuka Ranch are spent listening attentively to Frank Ysenberg, head of BMW's Driver Safety Training and an expert on Namibia. We learn several very important facts:
- A scorpion or venomous snake could be lurking under every stone.
- Every step you take on grass or sand could startle a snake or scorpion.
- Humans are not usually considered very high up on the native predators' menu.
- The slower driver gets there first.

After this brief introduction we are escorted to our BMW, which over the next few days was to carry us across southern Namibia. Equipped with air conditioning, GPS navigation and plenty of space for our luggage. The first few meters take us over a gravely track and on to the very first exercise: keep your distance and drive on the left. This part of the world is very arid and driving over the dry roads means that great dust clouds form behind the car ahead, limiting visibility to a maximum of ten meters. We make sure to trail at least 50 meters behind the leading car.

Our second exercise is steering the vehicle up and down hills off-road. The BMWs make this very easy for us. Thanks to the advanced electronics, excellent tyres and the expert guidance of Frank and Dieter, the two BMW driving instructors, we effortlessly manoeuvre our two-ton vehicles. For most of the participants this exercise serves to whet their appetite for greater challenges: the ice is quite definitely broken. Even those who started the day crouching hesitantly behind the steering wheel now cannot wait for the next day's session. First, though, it's time to give the cars a rest. The teams change their lenses and jump aboard for a short safari and our first glimpse of the native fauna.

A converted Defender offers enough space for a dozen eager humans, all on the look-out for anything that moves. The ranch is situated in a fertile area populated by rhinos, giraffes, gazelles and many other exotic creatures. We dismiss all memories of the local zoo and concentrate on trying to spot some real animals in the wild, which is not as easy as we had hoped: most animals are very shy and exceedingly well camouflaged. The only exceptions are the warthogs, who - just like us - are more curious than cautious.

Chocolate is our secret weapon, and we use it to tempt a small family to come closer. Father, mother and son. White rhinoceroses are placid creatures who seem supremely indifferent to any potential threat posed by the metal stranger in their vicinity. An ample supply of food distracts their attention from the rapid shutter clicking emanating from the numerous cameras and the gawping humans. We enjoy the scene and the tranquillity that these giants exude. Just one of the many sides of Namibia.

Namibia has many faces. Read the second part of our report and find out more about our encounter with the earth's oldest desert, a playground for giants and copious quantities of pink.