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enlarge This evening dress, one of Worth's creations from 1872, displays Worth's penchant for lavish use of silk material and lace from Lyon. Opulence combined with figure-hugging elegance was a beauty-ideal at that time.
Charles Frederick Worth
(1825-1895)


It wasn't a Frenchman but the Brit Charles Frederick Worth who is regarded as the founder of French "Haute Couture". And it was also Worth who founded the "Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne" in 1868, whose rules still apply today. To be regarded as a haute couture fashion house, a fashion house must not only employ a minimum of 15 employees in its atelier, but it must also present at least 35 tailor-made models per season, therefore twice a year.
Worth masterfully combined English cutting techniques with French splendour. However his fashion creations were less innovative than his skill at marketing himself as a creator, artist and director. He introduced the yearly presentation of a new collection himself, which promoted the sales of his signed works to the enthusiastic, French world of fashion.


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enlarge The silhouette of this evening gown in the form of an S from 1885 is still determined by the corset, however Worth flattened down the skirt at the front. What was emphasised, in addition to the wasp waist, where the curves of the wearer's bum by lavishly gathering the silk at the back. Under this, the lady would wear a so-called "bustle" (= padding or a structure made of steel wire designed to make the skirt protrude from behind).
enlarge At that time a lady of the world would change her attire up to eight times a day, depending on occasion and location. This afternoon dress (1894) made out of intensive red silk velvet granted her - despite the stand-up collar - somewhat more freedom of movement due to its voluminous "gigot sleeves" (leg-of-lamb sleeves).

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The fashion trends at the start of the 20th Century are clearly illustrated by this salmon-coloured silk-imitation wedding dress (1917), richly embroidered with pearls and a floral pattern:
Turning away from the fishbone corset. The wide-cut upper body with a high waistline becomes increasingly significant. Madame brings her natural beauty to shine.



Text: Corinna Keller
Photos:
The Museum of the City of New York



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